Group

Leader: Druhv

Basement pit o’ Doom

Materials Needed

  • Crushed gravel (¾-inch minus or dense-grade aggregate)
  • Premixed concrete bags
  • Water and a mixing tub or portable mixer
  • Wheelbarrow and shovel
  • Hand tamper or plate compactor
  • Sturdy wooden board (screed board)
  • Mason’s trowel Instructions
  • Clean the Hole: Remove all loose dirt, old broken concrete, and debris from the cavity.
  • Dry the Area: Clear out any standing water so the subgrade is stable.
  • Add Gravel Base: Pour 4 to 6 inches of crushed gravel into the bottom of the hole.
  • Compact the Gravel: Pack the gravel down tight with a hand tamper to stop future shifting.
  • Mix the Concrete: Stir your concrete mix with clean water in a tub until it looks like thick oatmeal.
  • Pour the Concrete: Dump the wet concrete over the packed gravel bed.
  • Spread and Level: Push the concrete into all corners and smooth the top flat with your shovel.
  • Screed the Surface: Slide a wooden board back and forth across the top to match the height of the old floor.
  • Smooth and Finish: Use a trowel to make the top smooth and clean.
  • Cure the Concrete: Keep the surface damp for a few days so it gets as hard as possible.

Front Pillar Repair

What You Need

  • Hammer and cold chisel
  • Wire brush and shop vacuum
  • Concrete bonding adhesive
  • Quick-setting cement or vinyl concrete patch mix (such as Quikrete Quick-Setting Cement)
  • Scrap plywood and weights/cinder blocks for a form
  • Trowel, margin trowel, and edging tool
  • Spray bottle or damp sponge

Step 1: Prep and Clean the Area

  • Chip away all loose, soft, or crumbling concrete using your hammer and chisel.
  • Undercut the edges of the hole so the inner part is slightly wider than the surface opening, which locks the patch in place.
  • Scrub away all dust and loose particles with a wire brush and vacuum the area completely. Step 2: Set Up and Prime
  • Drill anchor holes and insert masonry screws if you are repairing a large broken corner or deep edge.
  • Saturate the repair zone with water so the old dry concrete does not suck moisture out of your new mix, but wipe away standing puddles (Saturated Surface Dry condition).
  • Paint a liberal layer of concrete bonding adhesive over the exposed old concrete. Step 3: Build a Form and Apply the Mix
  • Clamp or brace a piece of oiled scrap wood against the step face to act as a mold for missing edges or corners.
  • Mix your quick-setting cement with water until it has a heavy, moldable consistency.
  • Press the material firmly into all corners and crevices with a trowel to eliminate air pockets.
  • Screed the surface flat and use an edging tool to recreate rounded step profiles. Step 4: Cure and Finish
  • Smooth the final surface gently using a moist sponge.
  • Carefully remove the wood form after the material sets (usually 20 to 30 minutes for quick-setting mixes), and smooth any rough transition marks.
  • Keep the patch damp by misting it with water or covering it with plastic sheeting for at least 48 hours.

Also repair the mosaic: there should be white subway tile in the epsilon closet

Back hallway grinding and resealing

Drylok floo https://www.homedepot.com/p/DRYLOK-1-gal-Dover-Gray-Low-Sheen-Latex-Interior-Exterior-Concrete-Floor-Paint-832779/321137155#overlay

Maybe can get away with a good scrubing. Might need grinding.